Blaugurgunder (AT), Clevner (CH), Blauer Spätburgunder (DE), Pinot Noir (FR), Pinot Nero (IT) “geile trinkfluss”
As like the previous tasted Pinot Noir, Müllers Nussberg, the Classic version of Pinot Noir of the Müllers House, Blauburgunder Klassisch, presents lovely brilliance and purity of colour, with a nice sexy carmine red color and a purple tinge. Compared with the Reserved version in the nose presents some nice aromas of redcurrant, wild rasp berry, and ripe cherries. The vegetative aromas are mainly tomatoe leaf. In the palate is a young wine with some very interesting sexiness; e.g. nice crispy acid and delicate aromas. There are no complexing characters of Oak present, making it a very nice summer wine and an amazing easy drinking feel (first thing came into my mind when tasting was “geile trinkfluss”.) It has a smooth sexy Burgundy-like texture, rounded and silky yet with good grip and long, sweet fruity finish. The wine has a nice bite, palate length and medium weight, so to say a lovely structured acid.
This Juicy Pinot Noir, can also take the tricky pairing ingredient, tomatoes. Like a casserole of rabbit stewed in tomatoes red peppers sauce on top of a creamy polenta. This wine pairs well with a mushrooms and wild porcini soufflé cutting out the creaminess with the acid and complementing the nice eartiness of the wild muschrooms with the fruit. What cheese and what bread?, on the cheese side you can go with a bit harder cheeses and higher acidity, like young Cheddar, Monterey Jack, Edam, Emmentaler or Gruyere, even a Manchego Curado and a bite lactic sour Tomme d’Alsace. Some nice sour dough dark breads, or a Artisan Baguette, and nice fresh tomatoes salad will match well also with this wine.
Pinot Blanc Weißburgunder (Klevner) Mitterberg 2016
This is a more robust wine with nice yellow hay colour and involving brilliance, clarity and purity (hinting us again that the wine may have an interesting harmony on the acids). This wine also presents a lovely viscosity and dreaming tears by swirling (indicative that the wine has a higher alcohol with interesting viscosity). As compared with the lighter Pinot blanc Classic (Hungerberg) it presents lovely fruity characters like intense peach, green melon, and apples, but also the typical almond nut. This wine is a riper wine than the Classic version from the Hungerberg terroir. The Mittlerberg in Nussdorf has an interesting climate dominated with cool windy afternoons due to the proximity to the Danube River and its orientation to the cardinal points. The soils are a mixture of calcareous rocks, sand and lower amounts of clay with a very good water drainage. These soil characteristics and the use of a neutral yeast produced a wine with very interesting minerality that is noticeable in the nose. As complexing characters, to compensate with the fruit, there are notes of vanilla, mokka, bitter-chocolate, cinnamon and coconut (all these comes from the integration of nice toasted Oak treatment during the wine aging, yeah! A new barrel oak style pinot blanc, a very nice one indeed, sexy and modern style, a surprise to be seeing in Austria) and nutty flavors.
The wine in the palate presents a nice mixture of fruits, nutty and complexing oaky characters that harmonize nicely and don’t show-off (the oak treatment is not overpowering preserving the nice fruity characters). The wine nutty aromas are due to a long fine yeast contact during aging. The harmony of acid and sweetness from the alcohol (that again is not sharp) is nice, and as with classic Pinot Blanc, the wine has an interesting acid bite due not having gone into malolactic fermentation. This has preserved the nice primary fruity and delicate aromas of the wine. The tannin structure of the wine is smooth to silky, that invites to drink and eat. The palate fruit and flavor length is nice, not presenting much of a bitter character and with a very smooth and long finish. The wine presents a medium body to full body structure and weight in the palate.
Compared with the Hungerberg in Vienna (where vineyards are enclosed inside 19th district, between houses) the Nussberg terroir vineyards (a few Km north of Vienna facing the Danube River) preserves somewhat more the acids on the late harvested grapes. This gives the winemaker the opportunity of producing high ranking white wines with very long aging potential. This wine in its youth is vibrant and nice and will be expected to age to a nice complex wine still preserving fruity characters.
Pairing with food; as with the Pinot Noir, the wine will go well, with its hint of smoke and vanilla and the freshness of acidity, with Roast chicken or Roast pork with herbs and fennel. It would also be excellent for a Roast Pork accompanied with a reductive sauce made of Apple Most (Still Cider) and Liquor Wine of Pinot (a Mistella of PinoBlanc), pepper corns and refined with cream and on the side dish creamy mash potatoes. On the cheese side and bread side, I think it will match well with Sour dough bread and Brie and similar cheeses, but also goat and sheep cheeses will pair as well since rich, creamy cheeses blend seamlessly with buttery, oaky white wines, creating a truly harmonious palate sensation.